Veracruz

Alex was a PhD student in chris's department in Aussie, but when he finished 2 years ago he and family (Suriya & Emillio) returned to Coatepec, 10min from Xalapa, Mexico. It was always our plan to catch up again when we were passing through mexico, especially given the expected arrival of a new baby (Andreas). In addition, Al was asked to take on more work, and Chris was interested in going to language school. Our arrival timing could not have been worse with the new baby just arrived, but in demonstration of just how easy things are in Mexico, Alex took us to see a friends house that would be available to rent in a couple of weeks and at the same time, found out one of the little cabanas across the road was empty; so we moved in that night. Gas (and other things you may want) are easily organised - just listen out for the right music as they drive down your street and flag them down. Unfortunately, it took us a couple of days to work this out. I'm in debt to Suriya for teaching the song for the gas man, or else we'd have been waiting more than 4 days for the hot shower (we managed to bathe with hot water from the campstove before then). Water is easier - the guy just rings the bell on the gate and shouts out what he is selling.

Where to begin with telling you all about mexican life. We love it, and after a month and doing the sums I can tell you I would live here at the drop of a hat. Comparative savings (in USD) after living costs and tax are on par with NZ if not better, at least for academic positions. Don't believe me, I'll email you the spread sheet. We were ourselves shocked! Rent and mortgages are cheap and easily obtained (ca. 5000p or $400AUD per month for a compact 2-3 bedroom house), utilities are great (400p/mth for gas, around $30AUD) and $2AUD for 20l drinking water (about a month for 2); internet is also much more reasonable than aussie ($30AUD/mth for cable TV, phone and unlimited wifi!). Doctors are also cheap ($2AUD) as are medications ($2 for my anti-giadia treatment when my tummy played up badly, and not because of mexican food, as I never returned a clear test after my last bout in Indonesia).

And just don't get me started on how wonderful the food is even for someone who doesn't eat dairy. Perhaps mind the chilli seca though...it tastes good it ain't good on its exit. Big meals are breaky, and lunch (late, around 2 or 3) with a smaller evening meal (cena).  The food here is very different to mexican food outside of mexico. You can get just about any cut of meat. And they cook it shreaded (picadillo), roasted, poached, fried (asada), you name it. Pork is also high on the list of favorite foods, including yummy pig skin deep fried and served broken up (called chicharron) which is just delish. Most meals are accompanied by beans (and here its common for black beans which are yummier than pinto beans), tortillas (like a burrito wrapper but smaller and made from ground corn; they don't actually eat burritos in mexico!) and either red or green salsa. Or you can have gorditas (like a harder pitta bread that you load stuff onto), crispy tortillas called tostadas that you load stuff onto, tortas/tortugas (toasted bread with sandwhich filling), tacos dorado (deep fried tortillas wrapped around stuffing like potato or a meat), and then there are enchiladas, soups that you add herbs and salady bits to, cactus salad (Napoles) which is like a cross between cucumber and capsicum but bitter/sour, and so many other yummy things. Morning and afternoon teas are sweet breads, filled with cinnamon and sugar spices, nuts and fruits, and topped with syrup, nuts or icing; or there are icing shaped animals filled with a spicy pumpkinseed past. Yum, yum yum. And then there are the restaurant meals - a splash at $20AUD for two including fine dining, beer (also great!!!), and desert, or you can do the classy burger joint combo for <$10AUD for 2, or lunch of pasta with sauce for $7 for 2.

 What I love most about mexican life is the sense of community that exists... there are the markets that seem to be open 24/7 for veges, then separate butchers, bakers, and tortilla places, as well as restaurants, takeaways and . And the kiwi dairy is alive and kicking on each street corner. So everyone has there favourite venders for each thing they need, or you can go to a big supermarket if you prefer. What this means is that you have so much fun with your day. I didn't start spanish school until a week and a half into our stay here, but happily spent my time going to the markets and tiendas (small shops) every other day, and then an extra 4hrs in the kitchen per day cooking. And then there is the plaza or park as locals refer to it, which is just teeming with people at all hours. On top of that, a busy schedule of various festivals, amazing colonial architecture and brightly coloured shop facades, and amazing coffee...

Crazy drivers? They let everyone in irrespective of whether they have right of way!

With al working, and me doing the hard yards with study (10+ hrs a day), we haven't done a lot. The 2-3 different cyclones that have taken flight around the carribean (and severly damaged roads up and down the norther coast) have not helped as its been rather wet, but no major problems as we are sheltered by a small mountain range. We've seen the anthropological museum down the road in Xalapa (500,000 people compared to Coatepec's 50,000; great as you can get anything you need for the price of a 70c, 1/2hr bus ride), Xico, a rafting river town (from the banks, as it hasn't been above 25 while we've been here) and well, that's about it really other than spending lots of time with Alex and his family.

We're now at a point where its time to move on, however much we enjoy the life here. Only 5 months before we must be back in Australasia so chris can begin that marsden (yes, marsden). Nevertheless, i can assure you, we will be back.